Tanıtma Bülten Sayı 17 (Eylül 2018)

Pekin Kültür ve Tanıtma Müşavirliğimiz ve Türk Hava Yolları Hong Kong Ofisi Müdürlüğü iş birliğiyle, 2018 Çin’de Türkiye Turizm Yılı öncesinde ülkemize olan talebin canlandırılmasına katkıda bulunmak ve ülkemiz hakkında olumlu yayınların çıkmasını sağlamak amacıyla yapılan çalışmalara bir yenisini daha eklemiştik. Hong Kong’da özellikle seçkin yeme-içme mekânlarının yüksek gelirli tüketicilerine hitap eden, 5 yıldızlı otellerin ünlü lokantalarını, hava yolu özel localarını, özel kulüplerin seçkin yemeklerini tanıtıcı yazılara odaklanan ve iki ayda bir yayımlanan, 150.000 okuyucu kitlesine sahip; kültür, yemek ve seyahat dergisi Tasting Kitchen’in yöneticileri ile temas kurulmuştu. Yapılan görüşmeler sonucunda; derginin editörü Marc Issac Hammons, yazarı Mamie Hsien Chen ve fotoğrafçısı David Luke Hartung’tan oluşan üç kişilik bir ekip, 13-23 Kasım 2017 tarihleri arasında İstanbul , Antalya , Denizli- Pamukkale ve İzmir ’de Bakanlığımızca ağırlanmışlardı. Ağırlama, ülkemizin yemek ve lokanta kültürünün Hong Kong’da tanıtılması ve yazılı basın yoluyla reklam ve tanıtım değeri yaratılması bakımından oldukça yararlı oldu. Yedi ay sonra Tasting Kitchen dergisi 2018 yılı 35. sayısında, ülkemizin zengin yemek kültürüne sahip İstanbul , Akdeniz ve Ege bölgelerinin seçkin lokantaları hakkında “100 sayfalık özel bir Türkiye bölümü” yayımlandı. HONG KONG DERGİSİ EKİBİ AĞIRLAMASI VE TÜRKİYE ÖZEL SAYISI http://emagazinepdf.com/2018/05/tk-tasting-kitchen-issue-35-2018/ I S TA N BU L MARKETS When steeped in hot water, these tightly wrapped balls of jasmine tea leaves and subtly scented flowers unfurl delicately into an elegant bouquet. 这些压缩的茉莉花茶叶球浸泡在热水中时， 会慢慢开花，散发烂漫的花香。 a land between | TK | 51 A Turkish-born artist puts a new perspective on ordinary fruits and vegetables. slice anddice 独具慧眼 AN APPLE, a watermelon, a bunch of beans – familiar produce thatmight conjure up fond mental images of the family kitchen, a country market, or a farmer’s field. But by cutting, slic- ing, and rearranging such common fruits and vegetablesand then capturing the carefully com- posed resultswithhis lens,ŞakirGökçebağ, inhis Cuttemporary Art series of photographs, trans- forms theviewer’sperceptionsof theeveryday. Based in Germany, the award-winning artist is best known for his large installations, humorous andmind-bending sculpturesmade with mundane household items that include everything from toilet paper, oriental rugs, and garden hoses to umbrellas, belts, and brooms. “Mymain focus lies in objects andmaterials from daily life,” Gökçebağ explains. “There are a lot of things that help us survive in thisworld, butwedon’t recognizehowbeautiful they are.” CuttemporaryArt, publishedwidely online and in print since itwas completed in 2010, is probably Gökçebağ’smost well-known photo series. Some viewersmesmerized by the intri- cacy of the images had to be convinced that theywere not digitallymanipulated by a note to that effect in the artist’s descriptions. “Fruit and vegetables are already perfect,” says Gökçebağ. “It’s difficult to addmore to themwithout disturbing their perfection, but I was bold. In the beginning, I started the proj- ect as play.” Hiswork Apple Peel, in fact,was inspired by a childhood game with his play- mates to seewho could cut the longest ribbon of skin from an apple. 16 | TK | a land between FOOD & ART IMAGE COURTESY OF ŞAKIR GÖKÇEBAĞ a land between | TK | 17 18 | TK | a land between ᣽ ݝ ̭͗㠦᳉Ƞ̭䷄㺬⨉ᝃ᭜̭ള䅳ၽぶ⛌ᖶ的➖৮，ᝃ䃥会䃖ϧᘠ׼ ݝ უᏚࣕ ᝬȠΎ᱾ጯ䯳，ᝃ᭜ ۉ ๘的⩝䛻。♣㔹，Ꭰ܎ᬍ๴的㩙᳉，䔼䓴䔯ᒀ的ܴ಄Ƞ ݷ ❴̻䛺᫝ᢿ݄， ߍں ̷䪉๡ᢂᡶ，ᅞ㘪᜽ͧ ŞakirGökçebağ Ⱕ❴䯳Ȩ Cuttemporary Art ȩ的̭অ，䔈̭ₒᩦअ̓ϧᄦᬒ፥⩕৮的ⰸ∂。 Şakir Gökçebağ 㣤຃ᬍ᪝，Ⱋ ݺ ᅲѼλᓤప，В๔ಸ㷲㒛㞧ᱜ䔅ᰶᎪ吅ऑᕗ 的䰂 ݨ 䬨ऺ，㔹这些҉৮的ᱽ᫆䘪᭜Გ㜗㼓᝸जࣷ的ᬒ⩕৮，ϻ࢘⩌㏥Ƞ͉᫦䷻ ᵩ的ౝℜȠᏚ䮏水ノ ݝ 䰕ыȠ⯛ፓȠមፇ，ᬍ๴̺ᰶ。 Şakir 㼐䛷喟Ȫ᜾的♓◦ᅞ ᩫ在这些ᬒ፥的➖৮হᱽ᫆，䃥็⩌ႅᓲ䰭৮䘪㪡क़Ɑ᜾Йᅇ᱗发⣝的㒻。ȫ Ȩ Cuttemporary Art ȩ在 2010 ᎡႹ᜽，㜠Ϸጟ在㑾䌜ࣷ჋ҀੳᏄᎬͧ≮э， जВ䄡᭜ Şakir ᰭუ૨ᝤᮀ的Ⱕ❴䯳。఍ͧⰥ❴中的➖৮㏢ὗϑ䩆䲋፥ฺᱯ，䃥็ ⰸᓄ䄨㔲䔅Вͧ᭜Ҭ⩕γ⩢㘾➦᩵，ͧₑЃ䔅ᓄ➦ౝ在Γ中 ߍ ∕᣽䚿Ȫ㐊ᬍԛఫȫ。 Şakir 䄡喟Ȫ㩙㤉̻水᳉ጟ㏼Ⴙ㒻ᬍ⦂，㺮在̺ⵡ౼Ⴙ㒻的ᗲ̸ۢ ں 䩓̷⌨花 䲋፥ఝ䯫，̺䓴᜾ᅞ᭜这͵๔㗳❞⣖。̭开໸，这͗Ⱕ❴㈨݄᜾गᒀ҉᭜о䬟⊵ 䖐。ȫЃ的҉৮Ȩ㠦᳉⯛ȩ ڣ ჋ᅞ᭜⎽㜗λЃ的〒Ꭱ⍥᜼，ᒀ时Ѓᕨ❞̻Ѓ的⣖ѡ ℁℁ⰸ䄮㘪 ܧݷ ᰭ䪬的᳉⯛㐻ፓ。 Şakir 花γ᪡᪡ρᎡႹ᜽这͗Ⱕ❴䯳。⃼͗҉৮䘪ᓲ䶨㺮ᰶႹ᪡的θ ݺ Ჱᕊ。 Ѓ㶕⹧喟ȪजВ៺ᥱ的时䬡ᲮᏓⴚᮯ，᝭В᜾ᰡ̺ज㘪ᗍ৶ౝࣨឫᰭສ的㻿Ꮣ，᪡ ͗䓴⼸⟦ຯ∝ᆞ压䶣。ȫ⃼͗҉৮䘪䰭㺮᫝凉的ᱽ᫆᝺㘪៺ᓄສⰸ，᝭В ߕ ᝸ܴ ಄᭜ᰭ㞝䯫的̭䘕ܳ。 Şakir 䄡喟Ȫ̸᝸ᓲ䶨ᔘ⠍۳，̺♣ܴႹᰭऻ̭಄，す̭಄ ᅞ开໸⅔ ࡃ γ。ȫ㮪♣⻶ᠮႹ㒻ͨͶ， Şakir ࢡ䔅᭜㘪 ܧ ϔ䃥็҉৮。䓴ࣨρᎡ䬡， Ѓ在 ښ ̺͗ह的పუ开䓴 13 ⁎͗ϧᆂ㻵，㔹́⃼̭⁎䘪⇎ᰶᆂ ܧ 䛺ฺ的҉৮。这 ᝃ䃥ᓄᑿ ߌ λЃȪ⩌≨ัั᭜▢ᙌȫ的Ԏᔢ，ϻ DIY ੳᏄឫ ݝ ៅថᏄ， ں ϻ䌠㯑 Because the process ofmaking each photograph was so laborious, it took Gökçebağ five years to complete the series. Thorough planning of the patterns was essential. “There’s very limited time to take each photo, and I have almost no time to experiment – it’s very stressful.” Since preserving the freshness of the pro- duce is essential to the final result, cutting it upwas the trickiest part of the process: “You need towork very quickly, because as you’re finishingwith the last piece, the first one is already starting to look old.” Despite his perfectionism,Gökçebağ’s output is prolific.He has held thirteen solo exhibitions in six countries in the past five years and has never shown an artwork twice. Perhaps it’s because he finds inspi- ration everywhere, from DIY and discount stores tofleamarkets and Turkish bazaars. “Forme, they’re all installations,” he says. “And there are lots of images around us FOOD & ART IMAGE COURTESY OF ŞAKIR GÖKÇEBAĞ (2) I S TA N BU L A N TA LYA I Z M I R profusion for sale ⥠⤲␎Ⱋ In ancient domed buildings and neighborhood locales, Turkey’smarkets brimwith the sights and scents of the season’s freshest local foods. MARKETS A LAND BETWEEN | TK | 47 A N TA LYA MARKETS At a Fridaymarket just out- side Antalya, two vendors enjoy amoment of respite as shoppers, always in search of the best prices and selection, browse their way amongmounds of locally grown seasonal produce, bins of dried fruits and nuts, bags of spices, and buckets of olives and pickled vegetables. 这䛹᭜Ⴖඁ ݖ χใడ的কρጯ䯳。͑ऺ ᥷ੳϘऄⱭ❴ ݨ 的ૅᖜ时䬡，ᥴ䏘̭अ ᜽γ⊵䉦㔲，̺։⾬ᷚ在᱙ౌ时Бϔ৮䛹 ̭ママ的᎟✒水᳉ࣷಇ᳉Ƞ̭㶸㶸的香᫆ ̻̭ᶣᶣ的άằࣷ泡㤉中，ឫᄨᰭܿツ的 Фᵩ̻ᰭ᷿的ੳ৮。 A LAND BETWEEN | TK | 53 TURKISH KEBAB RESTAURANT Thename is rathermisleading,because varied fare far beyond grilled meats is served. Chef/patronMustafa Koca, who was born in the city of Gaziantep, con- ferred the subsidiary name of Gaziantep Gastronomy Centre on the restaurant to assure patrons of the authenticity of an exceptional cuisine that originates inAna- tolia’shistoriccapital,whereTurkey’sfinest pistachios are grown. For the past six years, Koca has been ChathamRoadmaybe familiar territory,but a little side street namedChathamCourt is anunexpected refuge from the rumbling traffic and relentless glitzof surrounding areasofTsimShaTsui. When thebreezeblows in the rightdirection,honey-and-fruit- laden smoke from anargile,orTurkishwaterpipe,might alertyou to thispocket from another culture and another era,butotherwise, you couldwalkwithin a fewmetersofTurkishKebabRestaurant withoutbeing awareof its existence. 102 | TK | a land between serving his homestyle food toHongKong’s Turkish residents,whoconsiderhiscafé an unofficial club. There’s also a steady cli- entele of locals and enterprising children from nearby schools who’ve discovered a source for inexpensive and delicious quick meals.Thehalalkitchen alsoattracts steady custom from Indonesian andMalaysian tourists. Until recently, Koca juggled a second outlet inChungkingMansion, but rent increases and logistical challenges led him to concentratehis energies on a single location. WhileChefKocawas one of a team of specialists in other restaurants where he’s worked,herehedoeseverything.Hummus, of course, is offered, but savvy vegetarians also appreciate the variety of othermeat- free choices. Themenu includes several versions of lahmacun , so-called Turkish pizza, using the chef’s freshlymade pita.He features the bread in a variety of selections, includ- inghis specialty fromnorthwesternTurkey, İ skender kebap . Foundwith regional varia- tions inmostpartsof thecountry, thedish is namedafter its late-nineteenth-centurycre- ator, İ skenderEfendi.Thin slices of grilled lamb are toppedwith tomato-based sauce and servedoverpitawith yogurt and grilled vegetables on the side.Another favorite is the chef’s substantial serving of succulent pita-wrapped cod. DAVID HARTUNG a land between | TK | 103 including jasmine, rose, and hazelnut. The ritual involved in the traditional preparation ofTurkish coffeehas earned it a place on UNESCO ’s Lists of Intan- gibleCulturalHeritage.Buran enjoys an audience,buthe’s refreshinglymatter-of- factabout theproceduresashemeasures outwhat laterproves tobedecaffeinated powder. Toomuch salt in the sandmakes the coffee bitter, he says, demonstrating the time-honored techniqueofusinghot sand towarm the pot gradually.Embedded in the sand, the pot of water and fragrant grounds takes its timecoming to theboil- ing point, and by turning the sand with awooden spatula, Buranmaintains con- stantheat around the container.Bringing the liquid to temperature slowly ensures a smooth brew, and since the grounds remain suspended, very little sediment sinks to thebottom of the cup. During the process, Buranmuses on the irony of his calling: “At 16, when I startedhotel school training, Ididn’teven like coffee. It required toomuch wash- ing up in a hotel that served something like twenty-five hundred cups of coffee to guests every day. Itwas only later that I came to appreciate it.Now I know that coffee touches themind and opens it.” At last, the pot boils and, almost like magic, the coffee froths up to the brim and threatens to overflow.With a well- practiced flick of the wrist, Buran lifts the pot from the sand and sets it aside to settle before pouring the steaming brew intominiature cups resting in beaten-sil- verholderswith elegant lids. The ideal accompaniment for the creamy smooth coffee is a bowl filled with cubes ofTurkish delight in assorted colors.Flavors includeorange,mint, rose (my favorite), and lemon.Buran ishappy to hear that his version of this traditional delicacy doesn’t taste too sweet.He is reminded of his unclewho ran aTurkish delight factory: “Iwasworking in seven- starhotels at the time, and I advisedhim to changehis recipe andpackaging to get more business.HongKong people seem to appreciate it like this.” When Buran made his first visit to Hong Kong a decade ago, he saw the potential formarketingTurkishproducts. He soon returned from Turkey with a supply ofdelicacies to stock a small shop inTsuenWan,but foundhis life takingan unexpected turn.Customersandpassers- bywere attracted by the aromas ofwhat he’dprepared forhisown lunchandasked to buy some for themselves.At first, he told them itwasn’t for sale,buthe ended up giving food away to regular custom- ers,whowould often returnwith friends equally eager to try somethingnew.Soon Buranbowed to the inevitableandopened a small café,where his authentic coffee and relaxing ambience continue to draw a steady business, especially on week- ends. His Hong Kong–born wife, who has learned to cook Turkish food, runs a nearby sister eatery that is known vari- ouslyasTurkeyAnne,TurkeyAntalyaand ILoveAntalya. Buranhashadextensiveexperienceas a restaurant and barmanager in some of Turkey’smost luxurious hotels.His gre- garious nature and good looksmade him anatural as a barman, and that’s the side of thework thathe sayshe reallyenjoyed. While he misses the adrenaline rush, Buran likes the freedomof settinghisown pace and of taking full responsibility for the successor failureofwhateverhedoes. Nearbyhotels sometimeshirehim for coffee-brewing demonstrations at wed- dings and special theme events, but the surestway tofindhim is athis little café. On a slowday, youmayevencome across GünerBuranentertaining thecrowdsout front onTungChoiStreet. 他一边示范着用热沙缓慢煮沸咖啡的 古老技艺。盛满水与咖啡粉的壶埋在 沙里，逐渐升温达到沸点。 Güner 还 会用一只木杓搅动热沙，维持壶边温 度恒定。缓慢加热能确保煮出的咖啡 柔滑顺口，又因为咖啡粉一直浮在表 面，沉淀到杯底的咖啡渣非常少。 在制作咖啡的期间， Güner 还畅 谈他的生命转折：「我十六岁开始上餐 旅学校时，我根本不喜欢咖啡。酒店 一天为宾客供应两千五百杯左右的咖 啡，要洗的东西一大堆。直到后来我 才懂得欣赏咖啡，现在我知道咖啡能 触动人心，进而使人放开胸怀。」 ESSAY 108 | TK | a land between څ ྋ「 TurkeyAnne 」，ড໸「 TurkeyAnta- lya 」，又ড໸「 ILoveAntalya 」。 Güner ዕ在ဌ ߓ ඝ༮য়ࡴܰ酒店 ܞ ใ 餐࿩ড酒ծ੶୲޹೧，੶ᆬ࠘ 。ࡐ 加上他 生ᄹ喜Փਦৗ，ყ౑ྰྰ， ܞ ใ ݲ 酒໗૰ ၦ得心应༇，他ᇓངጝ໸他非常喜Փࢗ作 的一面。੪࣏ Güner 怀೫ࣰบ౅௶时້上 რ঱升的ଓࡥ，他ሁभჴ།Ꮛেົ定ࢗ作 ݲ؞ 的Ꮛቈ，໳ᇖ ڈ ցቈᏋেภฝ ࡏ ው。 ࡒ ੧酒店቏时会൱ข他在ঘᆪञ࿅༓ ٠ठ示范 ڤ 煮咖啡， ܦ 要ግ到他， ܬ ะ还 ໸在他的ᄆ咖啡࿩里。生ሃ਺෼თ的๊Ꮚ， ೠ૰能还会ት到 Güner Buran 在店౤口࿳ ج ੁ上ቨ୛大፳。 十೧෇ Güner ڴ ۫来到ცࡰ， ߙצ 现 மဌ ߓ ඝٛ൰的༁٠෈உ。他भଓ۰ဌ ߓ ඝ ܕ 来大஢໤൰，放在ᗂူ一য়ᄆ店߮༌， ౚჲ到上౤的客人Ꮴၵፇሃ不在酒，ᅒ޹ ࢾ客ञ௸人־他ᏋেᎳֻ的႐餐ცၟႥሞ 而来，ᅲၳ߰ ج ໸ ࠨ ᇓ໸ຟ൰。ඩ ڴ 他ࡻ ཮ጝᄎ人ጝ፯໤႘໸非వ൰，到后来他开 始ಁ ࠈ ཛྷ໤႘ࢍ常客，ጝᄎ常客还੶常 ܕ 着ჸ他౦一ᆼჲ١ბ的ൎቐࣕࢾ。๜ۨമ 大的ᅍชุ Güner ౚ޹ઌખ开始੶ሩ一য় ᄆ咖啡࿩，道 ݓ 咖啡ञቅთ ࠌ ၐႥሞம一 ൕၱ定客ฯ，໳ᇖጯጯ๊上，፵ದ生ሃቇ ඝᄰ௢。他的ცࡰ঻඗Ꮚᇓ能െ ݲ ဌ ߓ ඝ ல୲，在不ና ۃ ੶ሩ一য়ᤛౢ餐࣐，቏人 ፮቙，咖啡煮ࣩம，ჸತ ߟ ֈჍඩസ ಪ满到边ኒ，ᆞ૛ুਖለ出。只ਈ Güner ༇ှௌঝ一ং，۰沙፩ೀඩ咖啡壶，տ到 യ边，኶ਖ还౏着热න的现煮咖啡ܴ๠༮ 只放在ሙധ上Ȃ቏着ࡴᆈ杯࡜的ᄆ杯Ꮚ里。 Ꮵ໻ठ܋ിۨ፯滑顺ცۙ咖啡的，非 一ଐଐ඘ ث ဌ ߓ ඝ๢ྴಧ༥ம，满满一ံ 里቏௛ ڇ Ȃ֤चȂ౔ࣘञ೸౩口ၟ，ඝ፩ ౔ࣘ口ၟ໸我的ᏥՓ。࿪到我ང他Ꮽ的 ۈ ࿾ெ໤不会྘࿝， Güner भࡴᄰ，还ህඩ 他ࣰบ੶ሩဌ ߓ ඝ๢ྴࢗ٦的༖༖。他ང： ܬ「 时我在৅য়඘ᄬৃ酒店ࢗ作，我ਓሊ他 ࡙ ק Ꮽ ߟ ञ֡Ꭷᇵጋୄ࢑޹生ሃ，ცࡰ人 ཕॆभ ړ ጝ一࿄。」 DAVID HARTUNG a land between | TK | 109 COFFEE ON THE SAND 106 | TK | a land between He startedout inTsuenWan,where for three years he and his “portable coffee shop” were frequently seen in the streetsonweekendsandpublichol- idays.Over thepast sevenyears,Buran has become a familiar figure in the densely packed sections ofMongKok andShamShuiPo.Hecarriesacopper tray of sand barely thirty centimeters squareand tendeepalongwithhisele- gant tin-linedcopperbrewingpot,bags of ready-ground coffee, and a stack of disposable cups – plus sugar andmilk for thosewhofind the straightbrew too powerful. Street coffee is all verywell,but it’s also interesting to visit I Love Istan- bul,Buran’sTurkish café inTungChoi Street.Getting there ishalf the fun, as you sidle your way through stalls fes- tooned with brightly colored woollen shawls, T-shirts, and sundries in the melee ofwhat is locally known as the Ladies’Market. Walk up two flights of dusty stairs to find the entrance alongside a tra- ditional foot-massage parlor, and it’s like entering an extension of the street bazaarbelow.Potteryknickknacksofall kinds jostle for spacealongsideboxesof Turkish delight, packets of coffee, and postcards of two subjects, the sights of Istanbul and cats,which are one of Buran’spassions.Afterclosing time,his fourexoticTurkish felineshave the run of the place, but otherwise they doze contentedly in cratesby thedoor. In deference to non-coffee drink- ers, themenu includes awide range of flower-and fruit-flavored teas from jas- mine to pomegranate, aswell asmeze offerings and the virtually obligatory kebabs and pizza.Opening hours start around two in the afternoon, because people in this neighborhood, says Buran, are too busy for lunch and only have time for coffee. For thosewho don’t like theirs too overpowering,Buran’scaffe lattescome in a number of typicalTurkishflavors, 人 څ 为「ഉ人ੁ」。 ᆛ着两ާ ٽ ဌ ࠀ ᆲ的ੂ࿊໡ৃ而上， צ 会到达咖啡࿩๠口，੟஽一য় ۈ ࿾Ꮪ ؠ ᆻ生࣐。底჉ੁ道༁়߹ཕᆖ຿到店೗： ࢌ໮ࢌᆼ的࿂制໿൰Չ在一ଐ ，ߒ ဌ ߓ ඝ ๢ྴडȂ一 ܙܙ 咖啡，ᇵঽᇢ཈ྦ֧੹፛ ञేᛋ两፯᎐࿏的ಖᄪ൥一Ꮝഠ开，ጝᄎ ޕ૰ ໸ Güner 的ᏥՓ。 为ࢾঽ不ङ咖啡的ࢾ客，ጝ里的 ܠج 还֡ࣽᖡ୷Ȃ໠௔݃޹፯口ၟ的ॗ࣮ ，ى ሁ供应餐෇ᄆ点ঽ৅ॆ౞য়ဌ ߓ ඝ餐࣐ כ ֻ的૥๗ञൖ๭。咖啡࿩჉႐两点开始ሩ ᇖ， Güner 表示ጝ໸因为 ࡒ ੧的人౅到ౚ 时间 ړ ႐餐，只能ৄ出时间ङ咖啡。 Güner 的咖啡࿩还供应ᖡ୷Ȃ౔ࣘȂ ᩎ࣮݃޹፯੶ ݟ ဌ ߓ ඝ口ၟ的ೀ࿧咖啡。 制ֻ ۈ ࿾ဌ ߓ ඝ咖啡的作 ૰ߟ ໸ঠ൹定为 ஍ठ࣭਷૭ၭᏠፈ非႘፣ၭफ़ᇦٛ的ࣘ֩。 ቏我在一യ ܬ ࣎፳， Güner भ໸ࡴᄰ。他 ޭ؞ᎁ十 ࠍ ਝઈ，一֊一ᆞુ不మ॑，我 才知道他 ڒ ஢的໸݈咖啡因咖啡粉。 ๩沙Ꮚ里ᆑ྘޹，咖啡会 ק 得ଇ๿， ཱིะცࡰ৅ॆ૰࿎供ྈ቏ᄧሰ的咖啡࿒ᆬ， ֡ଭರᄎᏋᓍᏥጸᏑ的ဌ ߓ ඝ咖啡在೗， ܦ ౚ቏ใट一য়能与 Güner Buran ڣ 满Ⴞ રጀஉ的「 Coffee on the Sand 」᥀౟。௸ 边ྜ本ખ໸ဌ ߓ ඝࠞࢆ，十޹೧来， Güner ञ他 ݲڤ 的ცഃ咖啡ዄᇲ ڈ 为઎௝ฏ的一 ಥࠞ੹，为޹ኇၭफ़᎙๠ ڣ ുঝஉ。 他一开始在ᗂူ ܚ ம๲೧， ܕ 着他的 「ᇧ动໮咖啡࿩」，੶常ቍᏖ在፵ದञ࢞፳ ০期的ੁ上。ࣰบ඘೧来， Güner ዏ ڈ 为 ႞来ึ၄的၅ਲञແ水埗一 ܕ 的知ಚ人႘。 他会 ܕ 着一ࢋᎧ满Ⴟ沙Ȃ不到๲十࢞ ࠍ ਈ ߴ Ȃແ十࢞ ࠍ 的࿸ധȂ边ኒჩႦȂන፣ᆈ ፛的࿸制咖啡壶，औ৅ ܙ ᇲಢऔ ܚ 煮的咖 啡粉，ञ一 ݹ ലඳ໮杯ન，ௐိ还为ા得 ڤ സ咖啡ၟ道྘ഃவ的人Ꮃֻமྴञ೾೉。 ੁဂ咖啡ᇲ੶भ቏น，๩能ዉ ߺ Güner ၤ቙࿳ ج ੁ的ဌ ߓ ඝ咖啡࿩「 I Love Istanbul 」ખ࢑ู ࡐ ᄰၟ。ࣕ໸෇၄咖啡࿩ 的௸ ڋ ખนၟल生ம：两 ف ྜ߮ஹஅ，ೠ 得左ດ右޼ ۆݓ ࣰ๾ ث ბᆡ的ᆵొൖ৴Ȃ T ᅙञ五ॗհ౤的ኰ႘，ጝ热೓༁়־ ݓܬ AlthoughHongKongmayoffer allmannerofnovel coffee experiences, including some that claim tobe authenticallyTurkish,none can rival thepure theaterofGünerBuran’sCoffeeon theSand.Street food and drink are verymuch theTurkishway,and formore than adecade,Buran andhispotentbrewhavebeen a popularpartof the culturalmix inKowloon’surban scene. DAVID HARTUNG (2) ESSAY a land between | TK | 107 76 | TK | A LAND BETWEEN SüleymaniyeMosque stands on the ThirdHill of Istanbul overlooking theGoldenHorn. ⍥჏जϻѺλз᫜ಓൎす̶ᆞ̷ͅ 的㟼㣞ᰩᅩ㕣⌲ⱌᄧⱧ᱈䛾㻿⎫。 A LAND BETWEEN | TK | 77 he started at the bottom of the professional ladder as a thirteen-year-old dishwasher. Hardwork andnative aptitude couldnotbe held back, and by the age of eighteen, he qualified as amasterchef.Derelicontinued to polish his skills in some ofTurkey’s best hotelkitchensand then spreadhiswings for a seven-year stint inMoscow. Positions in Marseilles andCasablanca followed before hewashired inHongKong. Preparation is thehardestpartofmaking a Turkishmeal, saysDereli, who finds the actualcooking stage relativelyeasy.Likeany proudparent,he showed offpictures of sig- nature dishes fromSultan’sTable, beaming ashe summeduphismantra: “First you eat with your eyes, then your nose, and finally yourmouth.Presentation is very important. Look at this Turkish ravioli – yogurt and shrimp encased inhandmadedough!” Turkish delight and baklava may be familiar indulgences, but they’remere con- stellations in the galaxy of Turkish sweets and puddings.ChefDereli prides himself on a favorite that isnot technicallyTurkish, a showy semolina cakewith ice cream fill- ing thathe’snamedTürkDondurmali İ rmik. “Combine semolina,milk, sugar,vanilla,and walnuts,”heexplains, “and spread itover the ice cream center. Bake it so the outside is donebut the center stays frozen.” One of the chef’s more challenging dishes is a very specialminced lamb kofta , or meatball. Dereli fondly describes how bulgurdough is combinedwithwalnuts and choppedonion to formasmallsphere. “Open themouthof theball,”he says, “andpush in themarinated lamb.Close it and create an egg shape that you then deep-fry. Thiswas one of ourmost popular items –we used to sell over fourhundredpieces aweek.” With thenewSultan’sTabledue toopen inOld Bailey Street onMay 1, the chefs are eager to showwhat they cando, and the menu , saysDereli, is ready to roll.While the original restaurant opened only for dinner, thenewonewilloffer lunch service aswell. “We’ve been looking at ourmost popular items in planning newmenus. The aim is to keep the top five dishes in each category of hot and coldmeze, and our oven-baked specialties will probably be permanently available.We’ll rotate our other dishes so even regular customers will always find somethingnew.” Sultan’sCorner isenvisagedas thefirstof a chain of twenty-five ormore small outlets spread acrossHong Kong and committed to showing the public that even the sim- plest Turkish food can be exciting. In late December, Sultan’sCorner participated in amajor food fair inWanChai. The chefs’ eyes sparkle as they talk about the reaction of themore than fifteen thousand people who tasted their food.They proudly show a video clipof anearmob scene,with crowds applauding the chefs’ theatrical flourishes with onions and sauce and clamoring for selfies with the instant celebrities. “We’re here tohonor the cooking ofAnatolia,” says Dereli. “Everything we do comes from the heart,and that’s the secretofourpopularity.” 100 | TK | a land between ഄٛ஢࠘፣৞，໸我౦ல୲的ন໠，不੡ ቏ ࠁ ౟的ࣴბ，还቏ࢌ໮ࢌᆼ的༐࣮。」 ኊ本的餐࿩「 Sultan’s Table 」໸ဌ ߓ ඝඬᇖয় Ahmet Karaba ş 的心ᅭੌੰ。他 本来ჲ在ცࡰግ一য়能କ ܚ ࣦ宾的餐࿩， ษ׬ᅳႇ࣮，भଓሃ໧到๩ჲ要一য়ࠞࢆ 道 ݓ Ȃ൰ၟࡴᆈ的ጋ ，ۃܚ 他只得Ꮛে开 ᇖ。 「 Sultan’s Table 」的常客भ࣭ৗफ़，ඝ ፩ ݓܬ ဌ ߓ ඝજಐዷ大޹༮，ௐ቏不少ᅍ 要෼ጡ餐࣐的ဌ ߓ ඝ᎛ࡰᏓ௏໳࣐኎ࢗ。 餐࿩不੡ਾ ܚ ࣰဌ ߓ ඝ࣌ ܗߴ 表တ与 ߺ ࡰ ࣦ宾，ઢ֑生๊ᆪȂঘᆪঽࢌ໮ࢌᆼ的喜 ฃ٠ठ，౞ࠡ࿅༓ঝ动还቏ ޠ ൝႑表ᆠ。 ๲೧෇， Ahmet ቏ᄷᆖୄ İ sa ࢥ໳。 ڣ 满֪ ࡏ Ȃ热฀Ȃ天 ࡈ 的 İ sa 不࿷቙一ֈ ڷ ߶௏օ。 İ sa 生቙ ܗ ೞᎿ஀。 13 岁时，他 只໸餐ሜᇖၤੂᏥ݈的洗ံࢗ， ܦ 他ࢗ作 ไጡ，天Ꮑ不 ，ߩ भଓ צ ࠝు ג ௷， 18 岁 时ᇲ ڈ 为ठࢆ᎐ 。ڷ ཱུ后他持ᅝ在ဌ ߓ ඝ ༮য়ࡴܰ酒店的 ڷ ߶୿ச，ዕና ࡅ ಧ཈૭ ࢗ作඘೧，჏后在మ๱与૏๭؝ୁ૏ ܚ ࣰ， ፇ后才།൱థਰცࡰ。 İ sa ไ为，在制作ဌ ߓ ඝல୲的ࣰ ڋ ፩，Ꮃֻ࢙ࠩ໸Ꮵ೎的，໦ৗെ ݲ ੂާ߫ 而ყޭ๒ᇸ。他ჸ਩զ的 ࡍ ವ一ᆼዴ示着 「 Sultan’sTable 」的ጋഡ ，ج 一面ᆽ出 ش ᄋ， 一面为他的口ဂᮥ作Ꮣੌ：「჏用ᆞ੯൰， ኶用׊Ꮚ١，才用Ꮳղ 。ړ տധ ډ 现非常 ፱要。ೠ૛ጝࢋဌ ߓ ඝ水ਲ਼，૰໸༇ࢗ面 ൝֡཰೉与Ⴡ๗೗სೂʽ」 ဌ ߓ ඝ๢ྴञ࣮฿౺؀ডᅒ໸য়ቶॖ İ sa ไ为ඝ፩一道਺ବ೎的ல୲໸一道 非常࿅׳的ᆵ๗ဳ。只ਈ他ໄ ࠀت ᆲ ݓ ང ಖླྀᄆఴ面တ๜ट࢏ज྿ञླྀᆶۭছእ， ኶೰ ڈ ᄆฉᎫ。他ང：「նฉ开一ࢋ口，ਖ ᬶࣰ的ᆵ๗ထ进บ，ठඩ来，Ꮽ ܫڈ Ꭻખ ૰ᇵዣம。ጝ໸我౦Ꮵ热ᄁ的ٛ൰ፇ一， ዕ੶一፵వ٫ࣰན百ࢋ。」 İ sa 表示，९ะ一ᄧ的「 Sultan’s Table 」 ুਖ቙五ኟ一๊在էֳ஀ੁ盛大开ಸ， ڷ ໗౦ᇲඁ不ঽ ܚ 大ዴເ༇， ܠج ᇓዄખࣙ ढ़औ，ᅓ໷ 。ߙܚ ኊ本的餐࿩只开း餐时 ާ，ᄧ的ዏ还供应႐餐。 İ sa ဃ௷：「我౦ 在ົ৓ᄧ ܠج 时，჏۰Ꮵ།欢ሬ的 ج ໮着 ༇，Ⴊ၆෇五大热౤ல୲能出现在౞一࿄ 热的ञ୩的开ၡ ج 里。ௐိष૥的࿅餐应 ࡘ 会ႇქ期供应，ඝ他 ج ໮ዏ会గ௚ထ出， ุ常客ཱུ时 ૰ޕ ١١ᄧॗᆼ。」 「 Sultan’s Corner 」܏ဂጮ后，ၝ来 ኁ৓ਖ቏ 25 য়ᇵ上ᄆᄲஏ྇店׬؝ცࡰ， ፛உ቙ჹ大፳ထࣖ৿ ܠ ඌ໦ษ௑人ᄰ ࠓ 的ဌ ߓ ඝ౟໤。บ೧十 ߗ ኟ底，「 Sultan’s Corner د」 加ူᏇ一٠盛大໤൰ዴ。࿎ ঽ ܬ 时一ွ五千޹ಚಐ፳൰١ல୲后的 热வইჳ，ጝᄎ ڷ ໗౦的ᆞ੯ખ ק 得ດ ດ ߙ ࣕ，还਩զ ݓ ࢍ我૛一ާ੧ॆ෗໤的 ሯ൥。ሯ൥፩ฯ፳不᎘ኻ赏 ڷ ໗制ֻᆶۭ ञਟல时大࠰႑动的Ꮒྙ，෗着与他౦Ꮛ ട，一ཁ间ጝᄎ ڷ ໗౦ࢋࢋ ڈޕ ம大ಖ ᄬ。 İ sa ང：「我౦ჲထࣖ՗ೆရ஀ᆊல୲， ྈ作ྈ为 ߙޕ Ꮛ೗心，ጝጸ໸我౦ࣖ།෷ ᰄ的౷ી。」 ᄅ的࿝点， ܦ 在ጶ൥ቈဌ ߓ ඝ࿝点与؝ ݺ Ꮰ ڈ 的ሙत里，ྋ౦根本။不Ꮪ道。 İ sa ڷ ໗Ꮵ喜Փ的࿝点୲జ上不ིဌ ߓ ඝல୲， ໸一፯቏׼᡼ி೗სȂ五ᆘ六๾Ȃ用۳面 粉制 ڈ 的 ܫ ࡷ，他命ಚ为ဌ ߓ ඝ૥׼ Don- durmali İ rmik 。他੍໾道：「፩间໸׼᡼ி， ိ面අ上一 ل 用۳面粉Ȃ೾೉ȂྴȂც ؾ Ȃ ज྿Ꮽ ڈ 的؀൝，ะ后኶ष૥。ိ൝会૥ ༝， ܦ ፩心้໸׼的。」 COURTESY OF SULTAN’S TABLE (4) ESSAY a land between | TK | 101 One ofHong Kong’s leading pastry chefs explains why it takes premium ingredients from Candia Professional tomake his concepts a delicious reality. eleganceandsimplicity キࢂх䯲 PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONAL “WHEN I CREATE A RECIPE,” says Chef Thomas Lui, “I already know inmy headwhat the finished product is going to look like.” The Hong Kong–based pastry chef,whose experience spansmore than forty years, reveals something of the thought process behind hismeticulously con- structed fantasies. Their contemporary visual appeal and harmonies of flavor live up to his culinary philosophy of “elegance and simplicity.” Lui’s career got its startwhen, as a teenager, he beganworking at The Peninsula Hong Kong. Eight years ago, he opened his own busi- ness, Thomas Trillion, and sells his original creations in-store and online, supplying them aswell to top hotels and restaurants. One favorite is a sumptuous chocolate and cherry delight, a spherical sweet featuring multiple layers of taste and texture. Lui explains that once he has envisioned a new dessert, he considers the ingredients that will bring it to life. For this recipe, he insists on Candia ProfessionalWhipping Cream and Candia Professional Unsalted Butter 82%. In a recipe that calls for somuch cream, Candia Professional’s unmatched quality is absolutely essential: “With other creams, you sometimes get an off-tinge or grainy texture,whichwould definitelymar the aesthetics of the final result.” He finds that Candia Professional cream retains itswhite sheenwhenwhipped and never fails to produce the silky smoothness it’s famous for. “As soon aswe tried it,we noticed Candia Professional’s superior quality.” The pure taste and subtle, sweet notes of Candia Professional Unsalted Butter are also crucial to the recipe’s success. “This dessert has a rich dark chocolate biscuit at the bottom,” says Lui, “and Candia Professional’s creamy fresh aroma brings out theflavor beautifully.” 香⍜ⴒऺ㈂◦ጵֲूᓤ䒶 (Thomas Lui) 㶕⹧喟Ȫ开发᫝҉ 的ह时，㘾⊤䛹Ό会⊛⣝ ܧ ᜽৮的ᵤၽ。ȫ这Ѻ㏼ࢳ䊲䓴 40 Ꭱ的㈂◦⩹Ⴤጵ๔᫦ ރ Ჽ㜗ጞ的Ჱᕊ䓴⼸，ܳϘຯ҂ក 䕍㇫䰂㏳⥏的ᷓᎨ⩉◦。Ѓ的҉৮ ٲ ␎⣝А䷻ᵩ，ঠ䖀ࡼ 䄰Ƞ㏳㚨，࢝䃮的᭜㜗ጞ̭䉜的☦亗ਟ႓喒キࢂࣷх䯲。 ूᓤ䒶ᄾ时Ӭ开໸在香⍜ࡷᇈ䙿Ꮔጒ҉，ͧ㈂◦⩌⋜ ᤚ开Ꮌᎂ。 ژ Ꭱ ，ݺ Ѓ݈ ߋ γȪ Thomas Trillion ȫ，䮑γλ ჋ҀᏄ䲏ࣷ㏬̷䉖ਜ਼，Όͧऱ๔̭≮䙿Ꮔࣷ丽ࢲӈᏁ㇫ᓰ ݈҉的ऱᐼ݈࣌㈂◦， ڣ 中ࣵВ̭球⟣的ጔ ߈ٸ ࣷ὞ᵰ ⩉◦➦ ݘ ऄ⁏䓻，⩉◦В็ᅯ⁎的㒻ঠࣷऐᙌͧࢃ◦。 䄡 ݝ ݈҉᫝㈂◦，Ѓ㶕⹧̭开໸ᅞ会ᘠⱭ⩕ϭ͵丌 ᱽᰭສ，जВϔ⩌ ߍ ΅的᩵᳉。ͫ这⁎的᫝҉ͧҸ，Ѓ ᅞಇᠮग⩕ᰭສ的 Candia Professional ⼭ຣ⇦ࣷ Candia Professional 82% ᬍ⯽叱⇦。ूᓤ䒶ᑧ䄰，ᄦ䰭㺮๔䛼Ҭ ⩕ຣ⇦的᫝㈨݄Გ䄡， Candia Professional ᬍजࡦ᩹的倅 ৮䉕ϔ৮ល⑁γͫ䋠䒨䛺的㻿㞟喟Ȫ⩕ ڣ Ѓ৮❹ຣ⇦，ᰶ 时䷉㞟会⪒ᓛռ叱，ᝃ ܧ ⣝ㆿ⟣ऐᙌ，๔๔ᒞ৺ᰭ㏵᜽ ৮的䕍ಸࣷ㒻ᙌ， ߌݺ ᅪᐰ。ȫѳ Candia Professional ຣ ⇦ក发ऻॵϛ⮪㞟∪， ݣ ҉ ܧ Გ的⌎ຣ⇦ϺԊ⪆ Candia Professional 䉕ౝຯ͊㝙⏾䶧的᠈❹➦㞟。Ѓ䄡喟Ȫ̭䄂Ӭ ͧ Candia Professional 的䊲ࢀ৮䉕᝭ᗷ㞠。ȫ ₑ㈨݄㈂◦的倅Ⴙ᜽Ꮣ，Ό㺮ᑿ ߌ λ Candia Professional ᬍ⯽叱⇦的㏜㇦ঠ䖀ࣷ㏳㜡香⩉的䷻ঠ。ू ᓤ䒶开ᓰౝ䄡ᬻ喟Ȫ Candia Professional 㐢ჳࣵ᫝凉的⅁ᖜ ₐສ̻⩉◦Ꮒ䘕ঠ䖀͝ࣇ的叾ጔ ߈ٸ 亩᎟Ⱕ䒲Ⱕ᜽，ፓ ܧ БϧⱭ䔤的Ⴙ㒻䴢㜡。ȫ In the kitchens of his Thomas Trillion pâtisserie, Chef Lui puts Candia ProfessionalWhipping Cream to the test. ूጵֲ在Ȫ Thomas Trillion ȫ的ࣕᝬ ڲ Ҭ⩕ Candia Professional ⼭ຣ⇦ ݣ ҉⩉৮。 DAVID HARTUNG (2) a land between | TK | 117 DESSERT BY XTC GELATO, HONG KONG THE QUEST FOR DONDURMA 追寻土耳其冰淇淋 HONG KONG GOURMETS dream of it, that famous Turkish take on ice cream known as dondurma ,with its unique, almost chewy, texture. Traditionally, it is thickened and flavoredwith a combination of salep, flourmade from the root of the early purple orchid, andmastic, or Arabic gum, a resin exuded by an aromaticMediterranean tree related to the pistachio. Vendors use a bigwooden paddle to churn themix and at the same time entertain the customerswithwhat resembles a conjuring act. The consistency of dondurma varies in different parts of the country. In some places, it’s so dense itmust be cutwith a butcher’s knife, and in the region of Kahramanmaraş, it’s rou- tinely eatenwith a knife and fork. In Hong Kong,Mustafa Koca of Turkish Kebab Restaurant used tomake his own dondurma, but local food and hygiene regulations and licensing requirements proved too challeng- ing. He talked with a friend, who makes it in New Delhi, about opening an outlet here, but the cost turned out to be prohibitive. Georgie Riley,who is the director of XTC Gelato, a Hong Kong–based artisanal producer,was askedmany years ago to prepare a Turkish Delight flavor for a clientwhowas entertain- ing visiting VIP s from Turkey at a leadingHong Kong hotel. “I’m not sure that itwould be a favoritewith the locals,” she says, “but itwas authentic.We did use someArabic gum,which isn’t easy toworkwith inHong Kong’s high humidity. “These days, our Rose Petal flavor is very popular, andwe sometimes vary thingswith Rose Raspberry and Rose Lychee. Another classic is pistachio – some of the best pistachios grow abundantly in Turkey and can be seen inmany varieties in the markets of Istanbul.OurVolcanic Pistachio has been on our sig- nature list since the beginning andwould easily please Turkish taste buds. The rose petal and pistachio flavors are not authen- tically Turkish, but rose is one of themain flavorings in Turkish delight and other traditional dishes.” 香⍜㔮亂Йᬒᕊ้ᘠ的᭜䗐䷻ঠ⠙ ڤ Ƞჹᰶ ௩ ߟ Ƞ⼝͸ͧ dondurma 的ౌ㕠 ڣ ۝⋴⋸。 э㐌的ౌ㕠 ڣ ۝⋴⋸⌨ ߍ γ⩕㏏䬕 ڝ ಄㠻 ݣ ᜽的 ڝ 㠻ㆶ，Вࣷᰶ䭬៶ќऐ香㈃͸⼝的Π 香㘯，᭜̭⻺ϻ䓾ѩ开ᓰ᳉́会散发香⅁的 ౝ中⊤ᴾ᱕㤰ः的ᴾ㘯，⩕В෋ ߍ 叼⽍Ꮣহ ᣽ࡴঠ䖀。ࢃუ会⩕̭ᵦ๔᱕Წ̺᫚ᤲ៹， ह时׼अ᜼∂̭ᵤ䕄ᐱ䶫჏。ౌ㕠 ڣ ప ڲ ̺ हౝࡧ的۝⋴⋸Όᰶጛᐯ，ᰶ些ౝ᫦的ಇ⶙ ݝ ᓄ⩕ᆍ ܭ Გܴ，㔹在ࢎ䊘៶ᰩ侙៶ϭ，ϧ ЙाᲒ䘪⩕ ܭ ࣶर۝⋴⋸。 在香⍜㏼㥒Ȫ TurkishKebabRestaurant ȫ 的 Mustafa Koca 䓴ࣨ会㜗 ݣ ۝⋴⋸，ѳ⩞λ ᒀౝ͒㠈的些丌࢘⩌∂㻱হប⚔㺮Ⅿ㔹㸦䋠 ̺ 。ݺ ͸ऻЃহ̭Ѻ在᫝ᓤ䛹 ݣ ҉ౌ㕠 ڣ ۝ ⋴⋸的᰸ࣸ䃕䃧在香⍜开Ꮔ的ज㘪ᕔ，ࢡ发 ⣝᜽᱙倅ᓄीϧ。 香⍜ጒ㞧৮ࢯੳ XTC Gelato ᕨ⯾ Georgie Riley ็Ꭱ ݺ ᰫऄ჏ᝤ͸ច，۳ิ̭ 䖀ౌ㕠 ڣ ⩉◦，В在香⍜᳽უຏࡻ䙿Ꮔ᠈ᒲ Გ㜗ౌ㕠 ڣ 的䉢ძ。຦䄡喟Ȫ᜾⇎ិᤎᒀౝ ϧ会ૉ⁏，ѳႰ䲋፥䖀ౝ。㔹́᜾Й⶛჋⩕ ̷γΠ香㘯，香⍜⎬Ꮣ倅，Ҭ⩕䊤Გ䒰ͧఝ 䯫。ȫ Georgie 㶕⹧喟ȪຯϷ᜾Й的⣘⦝花⨐ऐ ঠᰭऄ⁏䓻，ᰶ时᜾ЙΌ会ᢏ᜽⣘⦝㺳⯳ၽ হ⣘⦝㢁᳊ऐঠ。ओใ̭⻺㏼ ڥ 丌ᱽ᭜开ᓰ ᳉，̭些 ڕ ̓⩹৮䉕ᰭສ的开ᓰ᳉ᅞ᭜ϔ㜗 ౌ㕠 ，ڣ 㔹́在з᫜ಓൎ的ጯ౧̷ᅞजВⰸ ݝ 䃥็̺ह⻺ㆨ的开ᓰ᳉。᜾Й的▘ᆞ开ᓰ ᳉ϻ开͇͸݊ᅞ̭Ⱑ᭜᠈❹，ᒵᄦౌ㕠 ڣ ϧ 的㗰ऐ。㮪♣⣘⦝花⨐হ开ᓰ᳉Ꭳ䲋ₐჄౌ 㕠 ڣ ऐঠ，ѳ⣘⦝的⶛᭜ౌ㕠 ڣ ⩉◦হ䃥็ э㐌᫆⤳፥⩕的䄰ঠ᫆。ȫ 160 | TK | a land between COURTESY OF XTC GELATO a land between | TK | 161 Hyperrealist painter İ smailAcar creates a “new iconism” from traditional Turkish cultural themes. fruitas icon ᳉ঠఫ㚫 FOOD & ART THE POMEGRANATE was domesticated about five thousand years ago inwestern Asia, likely around the region that is now northern Turkey, and it followed as humankind crossed continents and birthed new civi- lizations. Breaking open a pomegranate today is akin to an act of time travel back to the era of theworld’s most ancient cultivated fruit crops, a group that also includesfigs, dates, grapes, and olives. Today, the pomegranateoccupies a time-honored place in the food cultures ofmany countries, including Turkey.According to acclaimed, Istanbul-based painter i smail Acar, “It is a very enchanting fruit that symbol- izes fertility, power, and ingenuity in Turkish andwider Eastern culture.” The pomegranate is grown throughout Turkey, both for its fruit and as a garden ornamental. The deciduous shrub is in season between September and February,when its trumpet-shaped, orange-red flow- ers balloon into crimson fruit. The seeds with their sweet surrounding arils are separated and sprinkled over salads and desserts. The juice, known as nar suyu in Turkish, is either drunk straight, fermented intowine, or reduced tomake nar ekşisi , a syrup used widely in cooking. When an unpicked fruit pops open on a branch and exposes glistening seeds that can number up to fourteen hundred, it becomes clear why the pomegranate is one of humankind’smost venerable symbols of fertility. Traditionally, a Turkish bridewould smash a pomegranate and count the spilled seeds to learn howmany children shewould have, and, to this day, the fruit is presented atweddings. In Pomegranates , Acar’s oil-on-canvas still life shown here, a ceramic bowl of ripe fruits is viewed from above against an ornately patterned background of classic İznik-style tiles. Throughworks such as this, Acar seeks to highlight oppositions and continuities between contemporary and traditional aspects of culture. Although the hyperrealist style ismodern, the painting’s subject matter evokes deep nostalgic resonances. “Today’s artists, who are unstoppably searching for change and invention in the arts, areusu- ally defeated by their egos,”Acar notes. “I am arguing inmy art that human beings existed in the past, and if we ignore history, unique aspects of fine arts, architec- ture, andeven food culturewill lose theirmeaning.” ㏓ϻρࡰᎡ ，ݺ 在㺬χ，๔ắ᭜⣝在 的 ࡄ ౌ㕠 ڣ ౝࡧ，ⴠỡ᜽ͧᵪദ҉➖， 㔹䮼Ɑϧㆨ᪴ᬻ的᠀ᆂ，ⴠỡΌᎬጰ ऱ๔≟。ក开̭䷄ⴠỡ，ᅞຯह⾬䊷 时⾧ ݝ γᬔ时А，䗐͗ϧㆨ开໸⻺Ḻ ᬍ花᳉Ƞṝ᳐Ƞ㦎㤱হάằぶ᳉ㆨ҉ ➖的时А。 时㜠Ϸᬒ，ⴠỡጟ在ऱప的些丌 ᪴ ࡃ 中ࢍᢛγͫ䋠䒨䛺的ౝѺ，ౌ㕠 ڣ Ό̺Ҹใ。Ꭼऄສ䃱的з᫜ಓൎ⩨ უ i smail Acar 㶕⹧喟Ȫ在ౌ㕠 ڣ ̻Ꭼ๔ 的͉᫦᪴ ࡃ 中，这⻺䔤ϧ的水᳉А㶕 γ͝亣Ƞ≨ ߈ ̻݈䕍 。߈ ȫ ౌ㕠 ڣ ධ ݝڲ ั䘪㘪ⰸ ݝ ⴠỡ的 䍗䔦，这⻺᳉჋ᬏ㘪丌⩕，ࣵ㘪⩕Გ 㷲亝Ꮪ䮏。⃼ᎡΊᰵ ⁎ݝ Ꭱιᰵ᭜ⴠ ỡ的Ⰸϔ႐㞯，ॵ઴च⟣的ᾅ㏏㞟花 ᱢ会在䗐时⌽⌽׼०⅁球㝙ౝ㗭๔᜽ 凉㏏㞟的᳉჋。ᄳⴠỡㆪ̻ ڣ ᫮䓦的 ᳉㖶 ޒ ⻨͸ऻ，∿在⇆៶ᝃ⩉◦̷᭜ ᒵ፥㻮的և∂。ⴠỡⅮ，在ౌ㕠 ڣ 䄚 䛹⼝҉Ȫ nar suyu ȫ，जВⰡᣒࢂ૊， Ό㘪䚬䙿，⩇㜠जВ⊀缩և᜽Ȫ nar ekşisi ȫ㈃≳，Ꭼ∈Ҭ⩕在ऱ⻺᫆⤳中。 ⇎䛴ᩣ的ⴠỡ，会在᳊̷͘䔥发 开Გ，䱟 ܧ 䛹䲏䬗䬗发ϛȠ倅䓫 1400 ䷄的⻺ㆪ，Ό䯫ᕗႰ᭜ϧㆨट̷᪝̭᪝ ιᰭᰶᱰ༮ᕔ的͝亣䆎ᒮγ。э㐌྇⹩ 中，ౌ㕠 ڣ ᫝ཅ会ᄳⴠỡⵥ开，᪝᪝ⰸ ૤ ܧ Გ的⻺ㆪᰶ܍䷄，这А㶕γВऻ会 ᰶ็ᄾၽଐ。时㜠Ϸᬒ，᜾Йӊ♣㘪 在⣝Аౌ㕠 ڣ ྇⹩̷ⰸ ݝ ⴠỡ的䍗ᒞ。 在 i smail ⣝ₐᆂ ܧ 的ጰ䲏⇦⩨Ȩⴠ ỡȩ中，ВԜ㻳的㻿Ꮣ，᜾ЙजВⰸ ݝ з ڦ ᅩ ٸ ䷻́ఫᵵࡻͪ的ⷮⵃ̷， ᥳⱭ̭͗⨤ⷄ，⨤ⷄ中ᰶ̭些᜽⛌的 ⴠỡ᳉჋。䔼䓴这ᵤ的⩨҉， i smail ᘠ ᑧ䄰ᒀА̻э㐌᪴ ࡃ 的ᄦ⿸̻эឬ。 ᅪノ䊲 ۆ ჋ͨͶ䲋፥⣝А，⩨中 的ͨҀࢡ㘪ੑ䊤ϧЙᄦᔭᬔٰ㉍的 ڞ 卐。 i smail 㶕⹧喟Ȫᰶ些⣝А㞧ᱜუ， ̺᫚在҉৮中Ⅿ᫝Ⅿअ，ᰭऻࢡ፥፥䓀 㐆γ㜗ጞ的㜗䉌。᜾的҉৮ᬕ在ᣏ䃕， ϧㆨϻ䓴̭ࣨₒ̭ₒ䊝 ݝ ⣝在，ຯ᳉᜾ Йᔪ㻳γࢳट，䗐͵㒻ᱜȠᐧま⩇㜠᭜ 些丌᪴ ࡃ ᝭ፓ ܧ 的⠙➦䲏䆹，䘪ᄳ๞ࣨ ᘼͶ。ȫ IMAGE COURTESY OF İSMAIL ACAR a land between | TK | 15 I Z M I R MARKETS Şambali cakes of semolina, sugar, andmilk are baked in awood- firedoven in distinctive round copper trays.Best enjoyedwith a dollop of Turkish clotted cream known as kaymak , they’re sold in a tiny two- and-a-half-square-meter shop in KemeraltıMarket that has followed the same recipe since it opened in 1939. В㇄ㆿ䲏ㆶȠ㈃হ➈ຣ ݣ ᜽的 Şambali 㯸㈂㺮在⠙➦的ళᒏ䨉ចⰅ中的⛰᱕☑マ中 ☑ 。ݣ 这⩉◦̻ౌ㕠 ܊ڣ ಄ຣ⇦ kaymak ᭜ᰭҠ䙺ᥚ，λ Kemeraltı ጯ౧的̭͗ϲ 2.5 Ꭰ᫦ㆠ的ੳᏄᰶਜ਼。㯸㈂的䙺᫦㜗 1939 Ꭱ开͇ВᲒ̭Ⱑ⇬⩕㜠Ϸ。 A LAND BETWEEN | TK | 57 I Z M I R MARKETS ↑ A fire-roasted döner kebab , slices of lamb bound with minced meat, sizzles on a spit. The grill master deftly shaves thin slices and serves them, alongwith grilled chil- ies and tomatoes, atop Turkishflat bread called pide. ↓ When awoman confesses that her husband doesn’t like thewhiting sold at a stall in KemeraltıMarket, thefishmon- ger laughs, “You have to leave that guy, he just doesn’t know good food.” ☑㖶๔ጵ在☑ᓄୣୣ҉৺的᫸䑶 ☑㒷㖶̷̸ܴ㪱❴，̻☑䓐ḿহ⪗ 㠱̭䊤ᩫ在⼝ͧ pide 的ౌ㕠 ڣ ᝮ 䲏࠲̷。 ̭Ѻຠธ㶕⹧຦的̵๘̺ૉ⁏在 Kemeraltı ጯ౧的̭͗冩᥷䉚Ν的 刂冩。冩䉖ក䋐䄡喟Ȫ⻨开Ѓ॔， Ѓᵦ᱙̺ᛯर的。ȫ A LAND BETWEEN | TK | 55 Despite his long-standing passion for cooking,Alemder pursued his professional trainingandcareermainly inhospitalityman- agement,on theadviceof teacherswho told him his people skillswere too good to hide inakitchen.BothheandhisSingapore-born wife were high-flying professionals when thefirstof their two sonswasborn and they agreed that one parent should stayhome to raise thechild.Forvarious reasons,Alemder was theone.Heenjoyshands-onparenting, although, as ahousehusband,hemisses the buzz of an office environment. In search of more contactwithpeople,he started taking aportablegrill to someofShanghai’soutdoor markets and serving freshly preparedmeat- balls and otherTurkishdelicacies.Soonhis friends were clamoring for a fullmenu of PAPA THEOMAN’S HEALTHY TURKISH FOOD Turkish foods, and his home catering ven- ture, Papa Theo-Man’s Healthy Turkish Food,wasborn. When the family relocated to Hong Kong,Alemdercontinuedmoreor lesswhere he leftoff inShanghai,and since thenhehas built up a solid following of eager foodies whoflock tohis apartment inTinHau.He’s quiteproudofhis foodand sayshewillnever serve anything to guests that he wouldn’t serve to his own family.His cooking, burst- ingwith color and flavor, is enhanced even moreby the vivid traditionalTurkishpottery bowlsandplatters thathe sellsasa sideline. A typical meal includes a deceptively simple lentil soup and succulent Turkish- style twelve-hour-marinated roast chicken, along with classic meze, including shep- herd’s salad with pomegranate sauce and fried halloumi cheese, hummus with sun- dried tomato, baba ghanoush, and beetroot salad studded withmixed capsicums and accompanied by homemade yogurt and bulgur. Despite the successofhisventure,Alem- der says he will only do this for another coupleof years.Whenbothboys are in full- day schooling, he plans to look for a new position in the corporateworld. HongKonghas severalhundredTurkish residents,but, according toTeomanAlemder,mostonly cook traditional foods athome for family and friends.Heknowswhathe’s talking about,havingbroadenedhisown circleof friends by successfully running aprivatekitchen inShanghai for six years andnow inHongKong for thepast two. ୲不੡๾ ث ᦤ ࠎ Ȃცන඄׊，还用上ம他 ৳వ的 ۈ ࿾ဌ ߓ ඝ࿂ံ与࿂ധ，ք᭢Ȃბᆡ， ࢑加࿎升ல୲的፣ࡥ。 Teoman 的੶ ܠجݟ ֡ଭ一道૛ཕ৿ ܠ 的 ޒץ ྭȂᬶ制十 ߗ ᄆ时ፇઌბ೘޹ፆ的 ဌ ߓ ඝ૥঳，ᇵঽ੶ ݟ 餐෇开ၡ ，ج ඝ፩ ֡ଭ໠௔ਟ与৲ࣱట౶೉ୗ制作而 ڈ 的ಾ ᆵ人沙ଲȂሤᏣ ޒ ೝ与๊ຌ ߣ ෨࡞Ȃ෨ೝਟ， ञ๫ம ث ๾࿝ਢᏫᏋ制ቄࢆ与ླྀᄆఴ的࿝ ج 沙ଲ。 ੪࣏生ሃऱ࿳， Teoman 表示他只会኶ Ꮽ৅೧，݃两ࢋ ߒ Ꮚ ޕ ጶ天上学ம，他 צ ৓ढ़፱ইፉ٠。 ESSAY ცࡰ቏༮百ၤဌ ߓ ඝሂજಐ， ܦ Teoman Alemder ང，他౦޹༮只在য়里为෮ቐെ ۈݲ ࿾໤႘。 TeomanAlemder ჏෇在上ࣴ 开ཌ人餐࣐六೧，๜ੜ又在ცࡰ开ᇖம两 ೧，人షসࣖ，ྈᆗુޭ不০。 Teoman ۰भઌᇵ෇ צ 热፭െ ܦ，ݲ ඝ ໦他ਾ།的᎟ᇖᅸச᎐要在餐旅࣏୲，ኊ 因໸他的老໗౦ང他的຺ਦ技෠྘出๾， 不 ࡘ ሟເ在 ڷ ߶里。 Teoman ञᄧ加ൻ঻඗ Ꮚቼ቏两Ꮚ。大 ߒ Ꮚ出生时，两人的໳ᇖ ૂ๜๊፩天， ܦ 他౦ངऔඝ፩一人应在য় 里 ܕ ᄆࣳ。፯፯因ཧ჉，Ꮵ后 Teoman ڈ 为மয়࿰᎐ࠩ。他भჴ།෮Ꮛᆻቼᄆࣳ的 ࣰ ，ڋ 不ࣰ作为一ಚয়࿰᎐ࠩ，他ޭ֑࢞ ༃的ᅟᄀ热೓้೫೫不၇。为ဣዴ຺ਦป， Teoman 开始ထ着ᇧ动໮૥๗৩到上ࣴರ ᄎ௷天༁٠，߮వ现૥๗ဳ与ඝ他ဌ ߓ ඝ ᄆ 。ړ ౚ޹ઌ，他፵኿的ൎቐ౦ ࠎࠎ ข他 开 ߙ ጶ࿄ဌ ߓ ඝ 。ܠج 他的જয়供ຘ࠵ႚ 「 PapaTheo-Man’sHealthyTurkishFood 」቙ ᆌዴ开。 ภয়ᇧજცࡰ后， Teoman ড޹ড少้ ਾᅝ着他在上ࣴ的໳ᇖ，开ᇖፚੜዄᇲ഻ ᆻ出一ൕཏ፫ᾉ客，不时ሾ进他在ცࡰ天 后的ቿྈ。他ແແᇵᏋে的ல୲为๎，࢑ 表示宾客ञয়人ࢥჴ一ᆼ的 。ܠج 他的ல COURTESY OF PAPA THEO-MAN’S HEALTHY TURKISH FOOD, (3) a land between | TK | 97